The question I get asked about commissioning a pet portrait most often is “Do my photos have to be professional?”
The answer is no, absolutely not. Phone cameras are extraordinary these days and some of the best photos I’ve worked from have been taken by clients on a back lawn on an overcast Tuesday afternoon. But the quality and character of the photo really does make a significant difference to the finished painting. It’s worth taking a little time to get it right.
Here’s what I’ve learned from over fifteen years of painting dogs, cats, horses and all manner of beloved animals, and what I always share with clients before they start snapping.
Light matters more than you think
The single most important factor is lighting and the most common mistake people make is assuming a bright sunny day is ideal. In fact, harsh direct sunshine creates deep shadows across your pet’s face and coat, making it very difficult to see the detail I need to work from. It can also cause squinting, which isn’t the look most people want in a portrait.
The best conditions are a bright but overcast day or a spot in open shade. If you are photographing on a sunny day, find a shaded area rather than putting your pet in direct sunlight. Indoors, a large window with good natural light works well – just avoid flash photography, which flattens the image and can create that dreaded red-eye effect.
Get down to their level
This one makes an enormous difference. Photographing your pet from above – as we naturally do when we’re standing and they’re usually at our feet – creates distortion and an unflattering angle. For a head study portrait, I need to see your pet as they really are, so try crouching or lying on the ground to get the camera at their eye level.
A three-quarter angle (slightly to one side rather than completely face-on) often works beautifully for portraits, as it captures more depth and personality than a full-frontal shot. That said, if your pet has a particularly characteristic quirky pose, by all means capture that as it’s those individual touches that really bring a portrait to life.
Fill the frame and keep it sharp
Get as close as you can and make sure your pet fills most of the frame. The more of the subject I have to work with, the more detail I can capture – the individual markings, the texture of the coat, the particular expression in the eyes that makes your animal unmistakably themselves.
Focus is equally important. A slightly blurry image might look fine on a phone screen but those missing details matter at the on the larger scale of a painting. Most phone cameras have a tap-to-focus function; make sure you tap on your pet’s face before shooting and keep the camera steady.
Take as many as you can
Pets are not known for their patience in front of a camera…! But don’t be disheartened if the first fifty photos are a blur of movement and half-closed eyes – this is completely normal. The beauty of digital photography is that there’s no cost to taking hundreds of shots and choosing the best one afterwards.
If your pet is particularly lively, it helps to have a second person with you: one to hold the treat or toy to attract attention, one to take the photo. A camera or phone with a burst mode is also very useful for catching that brief moment of stillness.
What happens once you’ve taken the photos?
Once you’re happy with your photos, send them to me via email or WeTransfer (large high-resolution files are best sent via WeTransfer rather than email, which can struggle with big attachments; you can create a free account to use it). I’ll have a look and let you know if I have everything I need, or whether it might be worth trying again, or arranging for me to come and take photos myself, which I’m always happy to do for an additional charge (depending on where you are, of course!).
Once we’ve agreed on the reference photo, I’ll ask for a 50% deposit to book your slot in my commission schedule. I’ll keep you updated on timing and, for watercolour commissions, I’ll send you images of the work in progress before I start painting so you can confirm the likeness. The balance is only payable when the work is complete and you’re happy with it.
For iPet portraits, you’ll receive an electronic proof to approve before I arrange printing, or you can arrange the printing yourself, of course. For watercolours and oils, I’d always recommend collecting in person from my studio if you can, as photographs of paintings don’t always represent colour and scale accurately but posting is also available if you’re further afield.
Still not sure about your photos?
Please don’t let uncertainty about your photos put you off getting in touch. If your pet is no longer with you and you only have older or lower-resolution images, I’m experienced in working with what’s available – I will always tell you honestly what I think I can achieve. And if you need a hand getting better photos, just ask. I’m happy to help.
A pet portrait is a deeply personal thing. Getting the reference right is just the first step but it’s a very important one and worth getting right.
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